Cheers from the County

Prince Edward County has long been known for its magnificent scenery, splendid beaches, gourmet food, historic Bed and Breakfasts, artistic endeavours and welcoming folk. It has recently developed a reputation as being a unique and very important wine region.

Named after Prince Edward, Duke of Kent and son of King George 3rd, Canada’s Garden County is located about 150 miles (240 kilometres) east of Toronto. It was so named in 1792 and was a haven for many British Empire Loyalists after the American Revolution. Many of the farms, homes and Bed and Breakfasts were originally built by these loyal folk.

Autumn brings on many exciting colours and scenes to this area. It’s also harvest time at the wineries.

Canada’s Newest Wine Region
“The County” as many lovingly call it, is officially Ontario’s (and Canada’s) newest wine region joining the ranks of Niagara Peninsula and its appellations, Pelee Island, Lake Erie North Shore in Ontario and the Okanagan, Similkameen, Fraser Valleys and Vancouver Island in British Colombia.
Government Services Minister Gerry Phillips announced that this region is now officially a Designated Viticultural Area (DVA) and so carries the Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) similar to other Canadian DVA wine regions. The area, can be compared in soil and climate, to Burgundy in France. The award winning, world-class Prince Edward wineries have come into vogue.

Blessed with a growing season comparable to that of (but cooler than) Niagara and a gravelly, limestone soil structure similar to Burgundy, the region is well suited to cool climate viticulture. That is not to say that life is a breeze for the vineyards. Winters can be very, very cold even with the moderating effects of Lake Ontario.

Vinifera vines (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Riesling) can survive temperatures as low as –23 degrees Celsius. Temperatures lower than that will kill the vines unless they are protected. Winters can be very cruel sometimes falling well into the –30’s or more. Protection comes in the form of burying or ‘shoring up’ the vines. This saves a large percentage of the buds on the vine. Shoring and un-shoring can be labour intensive and costly but most of the wineries think it is worth it.

Prince Edward County wineries have succeeded in growing a wide variety of Vitis vinifera and vinifera hybrid grapes such as (red) Gamay Noir (grape of Beaujolais), Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Merlot, De Chaunac, Baco Noir, Pearl Noir, Chambourcin, St. Laurent and (white) Chardonnay, Riesling, Gewürztraminer, Geisenheim, Pinot Gris, Auxerrois, Vidal, Seyval Blanc.

Historic Traditions and Interesting Names
The wineries all have an interesting background and history. In 2001, the first official grape winery, Waupoos Estates Winery, was opened. Owners Ed Neuser and Rita Kaimens named it after the native word meaning “rabbit”. The winery’s beautifully manicured lawns stretch out to Prince Edward Bay and its Gazebo style indoor/outdoor restaurant offers a great view of the lake.

The Grange of Prince Edward County Winery’s focal point is an 1830’s barn built by United Empire Loyalists. It started life as a “Granger” family farm and has been carefully restored over time. The 50 or so acres of magnificent rolling hills consist of well-drained clay gravel soil provides a home for over 50,000 vines (all vinifera). Here, Burgundian methods of viticulture are practiced including hand harvesting of both red and white grapes. The Trumpour’s Mill Pinot Gris has been especially successful with 5 medals in recent wine competitions. Host Caroline Granger also introduced me to a marvellous Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet.

A winery located just west of the village of Wellington, Chadsey’s Cairns Winery, has a truly unique history, which goes back almost 200 years. Originally bought by James Chadsey in the late 18th Century, it was willed to Ira Chadsey who was a very eccentric (though long lived) man. Among other things, he believed that he would be reincarnated as a horse and thus prepared his farm for the new incarnation by building stone monuments called Cairns (hence the name Chadsey’s Cairns) to help him find the way. The farm with all its original barns and houses was purchased in 1995 and had vines planted in 1999.

The unique sounding name of Keint-he Winery & Vineyards is reminiscent of the wines it produces. The name is taken from one of the four Seneca villages that existed as part of the Iroquois nation in Eastern Ontario. Using the Burgundian method of growing vines and making wines, the winery has met with great success in a short period of time with vines from that region. The picture of “Canoes In the Fog” on wine bottle labels was painted in the 19th Century by English painter Francis Anne Hopkins.

Many a winery’s history goes back to the days of British Empire Loyalists. The story of Hillier Creek Estate Winery goes back to the War of 1812 where the present land was awarded to a Dr. Latham who served as a British surgeon in the United States. Famous for being the first to inoculate with the smallpox vaccine, he never lived on the farm. The 160 year old barn still stands and serves as both the winery cellar and tasting room. The wines are a host of cool climate award winning products.

Bold New Designs!
Casa Dea Estate Winery was opened in July of 2009 and epitomizes the passion of winemaker Paul Battilana. This new winery has two excellent vineyards whose vines are just under 10 years of age and produce a variety of fruit such as Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Zweigelt, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Riesling and Melon de Bourgogne. The selection of lovely wines expresses excellent concentration and complexity.

The beautiful and well planned winery offers a full service ranging from tours and tastings to winemaker’s dinners and corporate events. A definite must see.

Have A Glass. Stay A while!
One of the newer wineries, Huff Estates Winery invites the visitor to stay and breathe in the atmosphere. Its modern Inn allows visitors to live in comfort near the winery and take time to enjoy the County’s wine area. The winery’s “Oeno Gallery” offers one a chance to explore the dimension of art within the winery’s confines. Many come to see the strikingly lovely winery building.

Art exhibits and harvest parties are part of Sand-Banks Estate Winery located just west of the Village of Wellington. Situated on one of the highest points of land in Prince Edward County, Sandbanks is totally organic, using no artificial herbicides and fertilizers. A wide variety of grapes ranging from the hybrids Vidal, Baco Noir, Marechal Foch and Geisenheim to the vinifera varieties such as Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and Riesling are grown. The wines have great value-per-price ratio.

Science Plus Critical Acclaim!
Norman Hardie begins his website description as follows: “The vines are from France. The limestone soil is in Southern Ontario. The taste and nose is from me! I invite you to experience my experience!” Norman Hardie wines have become world renown and much in demand. Norman sharpened his winemaking skills in various regions around the globe. He spent several seasons each in Burgundy, Santa Barbara, Oregon, New Zealand, South Africa and Prince Edward County. In addition, Norman was the sommelier for the Four Seasons Hotel group for six years. Undoubtedly, the critical acclaim his wines have received is due at least in part to Norman’s vast experience and scientific ability.

Science also plays a great part in the success of Harwood Estate Vineyards. The winery is totally solar powered. The winemaker, Richard Karlo is known for his experimentation techniques which include: whole-berry pressings and cold wild ferments. He also likes to extend skin contact to obtain very concentrated wines. He takes a “no nonsense approach” to wine making and marketing believing that the tasting room should be in the same place where the wine is made. I say “wine-not”?

The number of wineries in Prince Edward County is ever increasing and despite the temperamental and challenging Burgundian climate, the wines of this newest of viticultural regions will also become increasingly outstanding.