Call of the Wild Onion

A fresh new sprout has emerged on the foodplains of Uxbridge. Wild Onion Restaurant may have hung a new shingle on an old eatery, but their renowned chef is a veteran at tantalizing local taste buds; something he’s done for quite some time.

Symbolically, the stratified layers of an onion seem to resemble the multifaceted aspects of food, and well, life; especially for co-owner and chef extraordinaire, Brian Cassibo, who has unpeeled many an ‘onion,’ metaphorically and literally. Now he’s back to where it all started for him in Uxbridge, slicing and dicing to his own beet, Brian has indeed come full circle.

Having once stood behind the very stove that he now cooks upon today, the European-trained Head Chef had come onto the local scene a number of years ago, as the night cook for Don on Main. When the owners expanded into a larger venue, they exported Brian, along with his creative and masterful cuisine, to lead the way in their kitchen. Over time, however, and the shifting currents of change, Brian eventually found his true destiny at a little doorstep on Main Street, where again, he fires up the familiar stove of his past.

A while back, Carol Tompkins, a marketing wizard and entrepreneur, had invited Brian, her favourite chef, to prepare a special birthday dinner for her husband, Dick, and a posse of avid hunters. Carol knew that Brian would be a hit, not only by creating a gourmet meal with the prize of their hunt, but also by dispensing tips on how their cache of moose and venison could best be savoured.
Impressed by his culinary gifts, Carol cajoled, “If you are ever interested in opening a restaurant, just let me know!” The words rang out as more of a compliment than an offer at the time, but she really did mean what she said. As dedicated groupies of Brian’s culinary skill, Carol and Dick would follow him wherever he worked, assured of a great meal.

Last September, Don on Main came up for sale. Brian was en route to scope its potential for his own digs, when he ran into Carol, who wasted no time in reiterating her previously appointed offer. A partnership soon ensued, catalyzing a flurry of tasks and a whirlwind renovation, in effort to realize this spontaneous dream by late November.

The intimate restaurant (suggestive of their European-inspired techniques and flavours) seats a cozy 30 guests in optimal comfort. The room is tastefully decorated and resonates with a peaceful, almost Zen-like ambiance. “We wanted a simple, clean look, nothing fussy to compete with the dining experience,” said Carol, who orchestrated much of the design style. Dark wood furniture contrasts with elegant panache against contemporary white tableware and pebble-filled glass candle boxes. Torch-cut iron trees add a rustic-chic statement to the unpretentious wall colour, furnishing a gender-neutral decor. Frosted glass panels admit ample light from south windows, yet diffuse the chaos of outdoor activity. One of the few colourful features to compete with the vibrant kaleidoscope of temptations in the dessert display case is a backlit glass design set into the ramped entrance inside the restaurant, created by local artist, Francis Muscat.

Hungry patrons are sure to find culinary gems on the menu to rouse their appetites; meat, seafood lovers and vegetarians alike are all accounted for. Responding to feedback, menu alterations have already been made, driven by customer desire. It was Dick’s birthday fare way back when, however, that inspired their specialty niche alluded to in the restaurant’s name. With unique wild game dishes, from Bison Rib Eye to Wild Boar, the burgeoning repertoire will soon encompass elk, venison, and other specialties.

Sous Chef, Chris Bunn, imparts elements of his own ethnicity, blending an Asian influence to the mix. Flavours are global, food is fresh, and everything is prepared by hand. Brian boasts, “I didn’t go to school to learn how to microwave food; we don’t even have a microwave.” He adds, “We offer upscale cuisine at everyday prices,” and packs generous portions to ensure value. “We’re here looking at longevity, so quality is imperative.” But it’s the customers that motivate their direction at Wild Onion. “We’ve had some great endorsements from picky people,” says Brian, “our door is always open to input.” He recognizes, “People are educated about food, they watch the Food Network, they know about food,” he reflects: “food is very personal.” And so, they aim to please. With as little as one day’s notice, you can enjoy almost any favourite on your plate, if obtainable, as customer satisfaction is regarded as more than mere lip service at the Onion.

After an appetizer of Mini Pulled Duck Confit or Crab-Stuffed Rice Paper Rolls, one might have cause to deliberate on a Main Meal: Tandoori Rubbed Chicken with Mint/Lime Yoghurt Sauce, versus Wild Mushroom Risotto with White Truffle Oil and Brie, or perhaps Oven Roasted Pork Tenderloin infatuated with Date and Maple flavours. Of course the daily Wild Game feature is yet another contender. The dazzling dessert parade flaunts: individual Strawberry Cheesecakes, Panacotta Custard, and a cache of assorted Gourmet Cupcakes, in colourful pageantry.

Wild Onion
15 Main Street North
Uxbridge (905) 852-4221
www.wildonion.ca